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When curating a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate renowned high-end names. Yet, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m totally surprised,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that led to their humble shop earning such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the cuisine, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.